Going on youtube and trying to learn makeup can ether be your greatest asset or it can be your ultimate downfall. There are tons of beauty guru’s out their giving advice and their own tips but when it comes to understanding the fundamentals it can be a game of chess. How do you understand the difference between shade and undertone? How can you tell your own undertone? How can you choose eyeshadows that are good quality and not over priced? What is pigmentation? Heck, HOW DO YOU EVEN APPLY EYESHADOW?
Take a deep breath and calm down. Don’t panic, every person who has been into beauty has always begun in this place. Like any other skill, it takes practice to get to the place where you want to be and it’s never to late to pick up this skill. YES learning how to do beauty is a SKILL people do go to school to have a career and earn a living at this.
That doesn’t mean YOU have to go to school but wanting to know the basics is understandable. Well I decided to try and break this down into lessons. There will be no buffering of youtube videos so don’t worry to much about high speed bandwidths and trying to find an adblocker for that stupid commercial from Verizon. This will all be reading and looking at pictures! Retaining knowledge is important in order to learn skills, I’m making this free to you and always available on my blog!
Warning it might be somewhat of a long post but is a very valuable post.
In this intro I’ll be discussing skin types, skin care, and color theory!
Where should I start? I’ll tell you, it’s not with the actual make up but understanding your own face is where you should start. That’s kind of a broad generalization but I do mean LITERALLY understanding your face. Many people start with makeup because they want to cover up the problem with their skin. EH EH WRONG ANSWER! You treat the problem at the root! It’s like someone taking pain killers because their back is hurting without looking at the source. They’re trying to solve a long term problem with a short term solution. Knowing the basics of skincare can save you a lot of trouble with makeup and can help on what type of makeup is good for your skin! There are 5 different basic skin types.
Oily: You wake up in the morning with film of never ending shine! Sticky to the touch and slick. Oily skin is more prone to have white heads and cystic acne.
Dry: can feel rough and tight, and is usually not acne prone. This tightness can be felt even after bathing. Another way to tell if you have dry skin is to take your fingernail and gently run it over your arm or leg. If you leave a line, you have dry skin.
Sensitive: You easily find that your face gets irritated with makeup on or changes in weather. Some reactions are itching, redness, stinging, etc. This one you want to be very careful what you use!
Normal: Oh man, you are lucky! Your skin is for the most part even and is generally free of blemishes or marks. Your pores are normal and you can use most products without worrying about reactions!
Combination: As many ladies of color suffer from. This skin type is a mixture of all of the above. Most find they have a t-zone, where the forehead and nose is oily and the cheeks are dry. Or they have a reverse t-zone. If you have random parts that are sensitive and some parts that are normal, that is also combination too!
Knowing your skintype allows you to create a skincare routine and also helps you to understand what makeup will be the best with your skin and what preventive measures to use to protect your makeup.
Skin is the largest organ on our bodies and it protects us from bacteria and other harmful effects. The skin on your face is just like your body but is way more sensitive then anywhere else. That being said not everyones skin needs to be taken care of the same way. Usually after understanding what your skin type you have, you will understand what you need to correct in order to have a balanced level. For the most part skin on your face is 5.5 on the ph balance scale, but understanding the intakes you need such as drinking more water if you have naturally drying skin or where you are located and how the climates can affect the changes in your skin. These are important factors to think of when creating a routine for yourself. These are the basic skincare techniques that anyone should apply to their routine.
Washing your face every morning and every night, should be apart of your routine. This is the most basic step. While many people use the same soap they use on your body, they don’t realize that many soaps that they use on their bodies are much harsher on the skin on your face because they are highly acidic on the ph scale (like 9 or 12). The skin on your face is sensitive! The harsh chemicals in the bar is way to much for your face. Cleansing your face gets rid of the dirt that is built up from the day and it gets rid of the oil from your pillows and sheets at night. There are different cleansers built for different skin types such as foam cleansers are really good for oily skin and creamy cleansers are excellent for dry skin. Make sure to read labels and look for skin care products that are targeted specifically for your skin type. If you choose to go the natural end of skincare, it’s the same thing be aware of the oils and the soaps your choose to use on your face. Natural skin care if just as effect as market skincare. Cleansing opens up your pores prepares you for the second part in a regular skincare routine!
2.Toner or astringent:
Toner or astringent is the key to getting even skin. Many people just think it’s meant to use to remove make-up but a toner/astringent, not only gives your skin an even look but it gets rid of the left over residue from your cleanser and prepares your skin for your next step. Skipping this step or not having a step like this can really affect your skin. It really strips the left over dirt a cleanser may miss! So you won’t be putting layers of build up on your face. You’ll start with a fresh skin every time! Getting a toner specifically for your skin type is important because some toners would be way to harsh on sensitive or dry skin. And also astringents are usually alcohol or chemical based which would also be way to much on dry or sensitive skin. Make sure to ask and double check labels before using one.
For the love of god, invest in an amazing moisturizer! The ultimate moisturizer is water but moisturizers are definitely important the because after washing your face it’s clean the moisturizers return the water that your face is missing. so for example when you get out of the shower it is best to put lotion or body oil on moist/damp body! It absorbs and seals into the skin leaving baby soft feeling. The same thing goes with your face, a cleanser cleans your face from dirt, if you don’t put anything after on it especially using a toner your face will be dry and tight. It’s a very important step ESPECIALLY AT NIGHT! The night is when you sleep and your skin regenerates itself. The moisturizer seeps into your pores sealing in that moisture you already have and adding. Invest in a good moisturizer and having a heavier one at night helps amazingly! As said before there are moisturizers that specialize for skin. People think getting a moisturizer for oily skin is bad but contrary to popular belief, oily skin needs moisturize a lot more because your skin is overproducing oil because it’s NOT getting enough moisture. If you are worried about aging, invest in an anti-aging moisturizer (tip if you start in your early 20’s it will really help)
Adding a scrub into your routine definitely benefits you! Sometimes using a cleanser is not enough, a scrub sheds that layer of old dead skin on your face and brightens it! You should NOT use a scrub everyday unless it’s a daily scrub. Use a scrub twice a week! If it’s an intense scrub you want to use that once a week.
Everybody can benefit from a mask. Start your skincare routine first then after about a week or two introduce your mask once a week. If you start out with a mask first, it will bring everything to the forefront and all your pimples will purge itself! If you can deal with the pimples go right ahead!
6. Eye creams
Best to use these at night because they sink into the skin and regenerate the eye area. The skin around your eyes is very very delicate, so using an eye cream that’s heavy with moisture and helps repair the elasticity will reduce dark bags. (as well as water and sleep). It’s not the fact that you actually have bags under your eyes it’s the fact that the skin around your eyes starts to stretch out and THIN out so you’re seeing the red blood vessels underneath your eyes. This happens to everyone so, getting an eye cream that promotes regeneration of under eye skin and elasticity is definitely the bees knees.
A lil more tips
+Lips balms! Real heavy lips balms at night keep your lips soft and kissable! Invest invest invest!
+Sunscreen is an amazing product and even as people of color we should use some. No matter how much pigmentation you have, you always can get skin cancer or burning! Getting a moisturizer with SPF is a great great alternative inside of getting a sunscreen by itself. If you have one by itself put it on in the morning right after your moisturizer!
You remember that color wheel you used in grade school art classes? Well let me tell you, you’re going to need it again. I suggest you break out the color wheel or go to michael’s and buy one, it helps so much in your journey into cosmetics especially for People of color.
In the color theory there are 3 naturally occurring colors in nature. These 3 colors are called primary colors. Red, blue, and yellow are colors that can not be made up or combined with other colors to create. Hence when they’re called primary colors
After you have primaries you have secondaries which are colors that are created by combining two primary colors. So red and blue create violet or yellow and red create orange.
Last is tertiary colors these colors are created by combining a primary with a secondary. Such as green combined with blue would create a blue-green.
Note that blue based colors are cool and yellow based colors are warm (red also sometimes can be considered warm). Blue colors create shadows and do not draw the eye vs warm colors are drawn to your eye. The warm colors appear closer to you because of how our eyes process colors. That’s why they make stop signs red and schools buses yellow. You notice them first over cooler blue toned colors.
Now, yellows can be cool by ADDING blue to them. And Blues can be warm by adding yellow to them.You will hear people say warm blue (aqua would be considered a warm blue) and then you have cool yellows (pastels yellow). You can also have in-betweens of the same color but different temperature (Cool grass green and warm grass green) the little difference is how much yellow or blue is added to the color.
Before i get into complimentary colors I want to touch on tone. Tones are just as important as cools and warms. Tone adjusts how bright or dark something is. Many people associate bright colors with warm colors, which can be true in most cases but there are warm dark colors to such as red based plums. Tones come from white and black, they are not colors.
when using makeup you apply the rules of color theory and use complimentary colors. Such as if you have green eyes you wouldn’t use green eyeshadow because it would look like one big mass of green. In the color theory you would use a opposite. A red based eyeshadow to help pop your green eyes. The color theory is good but you wouldn’t have an actual red, you would use a bronzey red or a red based orange or red based beige because in color theory you adjust to apply in real life not in painting or visual art situations.
Complimentary colors can be tricky because you start to mess with cools, warms, lights and darks. The opposite of purple is yellow so instead of wearing yellow lip color you would wear a yellow based lip color such as a warm yellow peach. It would still create the opposite effect without wearing actual yellow on your lips.
Keep color theory in mind because in the end it will help with our makeup lessons later on.
If you need more info on color theory this video is excellent in explaining